Almost any household equipment that drains water has a p-trap. Often, a bad drain smell is the result of clogged hair and gunk stuck in the p-trap of the plumbing, resulting in foul sink, bathroom drain, and shower smells. Check the tailpiece connected to your p-trap first. The first is a vented pipe. Without it the condensate line would be an air leak. The drain elbow for a p-trap fits into the drain pipe which goes directly into the wall. From there, the air/gasses will go toward the path of least resistance, which could be into the house, or into the attic where it is somehow getting into the house through air leaks (recessed can lights are notoriously leaky). That's when I learned that it's the pee trap we have to thank for nice- or at least neutral-smelling bathrooms. I live in a 60 year old house in Baytown, TX. One squeeze at the bend, even with fingers, and if it gives in – even slightly – it needs to be replaced. The drain stopper can have hair or soap scum stuck on it. Is a typical pump air tight enough to serve the same function? Without it the condensate line would be an air leak. Hello! In some cases, a trap that has a cleanout plug can be cleaned out without removing and installing a new trap – simply rinse the water through the plug and remove the debris with an auger or other tool. The P-trap is a U-shaped pipe immediately under the bathroom sink that connects the sink drain to the drain outlet in the bathroom wall. It is ideal for sinks without an overflow, featuring a 1-1/4-in standard outlet pipe that fits sink drain holes at least 1.5-in diameter. If it is higher, the condensate could back up and overflow. Although metal is usually considered to be more durable, the reality is that the plastic will last longer. We also discovered that the gas line leaked where it was attached to the furnace. My first line of defense for unclogging a stopped-up drain is to check the "p-trap"—the elbow-shaped pipe under the sink. Right now the there are no valves or traps attached to the drain system…! If your contractor made provisions during construction for adding a bathroom in the basement of your home, you'll find plumbing stub-outs in the floor of the basement that will accommodate hooking up a shower, sink or commode. You need a p-trap on this, and that trap has to be below the drain point. Kitchen traps are 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) in diameter. If it’s especially bad the mossy stuff can actually clog the condensate line and make the pan overflow. Also note, that because of contractor failure, designs are more latent than sensible. Every time the drain is used, water is flushed through the trap and fresh water replaces the old water. If the coil is on the return side, it will actually suck gasses into the house when it is running. If the smell is more like a frog pond, then that is probably the problem. When the AC system is running the evaporator coil (the box that the condensate lines are coming out of) is under high pressure, so air will be coming out of it. The “t” portion on a 3/4″ drain pipe to the pump is necessary to prevent siphon-age. COVID-19 Update to Customers Customers can shop with us in-store or online with our Click & Deliver or Drive & Collect services. Instead, you can install an AAV (Auto Air Vent) or modify the existing trap to a P trap. Washing Machine S-Trap: This is a typical s-trap, designed specially for washing machines. In addition to preventing those pesky roaches from becoming houseguests, it also serves as an emergency jewelry catcher. Without it the flow could potentially suck the water out of the trap, defeating the purpose of the trap. My condensate drain had no trap, but did have a vent pipe blowing cold air into the attic. Snaking bathtub drains is a bit trickier because access to the P-trap isn’t always easy. From un-boxing to the steps before installing your P-Trap which you can see in a previous blog entry by Amelia. Clean the pipe out and then reinstall it. Thanks for your comment. Disconnect p-trap. P-trap installation is easy as well as inexpensive. I’m quite sure that condensate drains would work just fine without the vent-T, but it is required by code. In either of the proposed configurations, either your original with the 45 or my suggestion without, both are absolutely S-trap configurations. There are 3 parts you’ll need when installing a new sink drain: a P Trap kit , a trap adapter , and a pop-up (or regular) sink drain assembly . This stuff is specifically designed for floor drains, places where the p-traps evaporate due to infrequent use and even drains without p-traps. Sometimes it may cycle quickly trying to pump out the excess water that keeps “rolling” back in. I stayed at a hotel once where every time I flushed the toilet a horrible smell, similar to the smell of an outhouse, would fill the room. Some drains have visible P-traps, such as those under a bathroom or kitchen sink, and some drains have P-traps that are hard to see or hidden, such as on a floor drain, shower or toilet. Duct Size vs. Airflow – Part 1 Pixiedust, I hope your P-traps stay grime and stinky free! The house was built by the previous owner who looks like he did things his own way and was happy about it. However, every drain must have a properly vented P-trap, and every P-trap must have a regular supply of water going through it to keep the “trap seal” working properly. Everything down stream of the P-trap is neutral pressure but could be subject to a negative pressure if condensate were to completely fill the pipe and flow downhill, similar to how a siphon works, even with some air bubbles in the tube. Offering good advice, whether you want it or not. It says coil under positive pressure. So there’s the benefit! If the drain pipe is in the floor, you have an S-trap. If 249 Pascals equals one inch of water column (iwc), then 90 / 249 = 0.36 iwc. There are just two rules that need to kept in mind. That is the purpose of the P-trap. How to Unclog a Drain (Without Resorting to Chemicals) ... Then place a bucket underneath the curved pipe (p-trap), unscrew the pipes using the adjustable wrench (turning counter-clockwise) if needed. A beginner can replace the p-trap in about an hour; however, an expert can do the same job in about twenty minutes. What’s a Few Degrees Amongst Friends? This I was made to understand comes in via the condensate drain pipe. Change ). P-traps don’t solve all drain problems. – Picking A Summer Outside Design Temperature, A Quick and Easy DIY for Improving Air Flow in a Home, How to Quickly Evaluate a Residential HVAC Duct Layout. The important thing about the p-trap is that it is has a water seal along the curve of the trap. Creating room for the drain slope, as well as for a P-trap installed in the drain line beneath the shower, necessitates using an elevated shower base. You don't glue this to the waste pipe, so you can replace it without cutting any pipes and potentially having to glue on a pipe extension or replace the entire P-trap. connect drain pipe with no thread to p trap; Author: jcampo (MA) DIY bathroom remodel. That’s all that I can think of. It may be necessary to clean your kitchen drain’s P-trap to clear the clog. The waves of stuff that we intentionally or unintentionally put through our drains — hair, sticky bath gels and soaps, grease and oils, lint, earrings, and so on — all conspire to block them up. The bend, even with fingers, and remove the gunk buildup place without the stopper returning your... 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